{"id":1725,"date":"2016-05-28T14:22:30","date_gmt":"2016-05-28T21:22:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ronaldleeoliver.com\/blog\/?p=1725"},"modified":"2016-05-31T05:43:51","modified_gmt":"2016-05-31T12:43:51","slug":"framing-tips-plein-air","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ronaldleeoliver.com\/blog\/framing-tips-plein-air\/","title":{"rendered":"Framing Tips for the #Pleinair Artist"},"content":{"rendered":"

The working artist has to wear many hats, one of which is the “Framers Hat.”\u00a0The following framing tips\u00a0show how I treat my paintings to ensure they look professionally done and will serve my clients and galleries well.<\/p>\n

If you plan to sell paintings yourself through an online presence without the intermediary of a gallery or other representation, to keep costs down you should\u00a0know some things about framing. \u00a0If you do work with galleries, they will appreciate that your works arrive ready to hang with a professional look, both front and back.<\/p>\n

Some tools that will come in handy are:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. A Tape Measure.<\/li>\n
  2. Wire “Nippers.”<\/li>\n
  3. Cordless Drill Driver<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \"Framing
    A typical 16×20 panel in a quality, wooden frame.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    I use stainless steel hardware that will never rust. You don’t want your reputation tarnished by rusty parts a few years down the road. \u00a0Usually I paint en plein air on hardboard panels as seen in the photo. \u00a0Panels are portable, easy to mount and will not tear like a canvas could. \u00a0It’s also easy to sign, date and add any other info to the back of the painting with a permanent “Sharpie” type marker.<\/p>\n

    Here’s a closer look at the information I put on my panels…<\/p>\n

    \"Framing<\/p>\n

    I like to add:<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. The Title.<\/li>\n
    2. My Signature(s).<\/li>\n
    3. The Date and Place I Painted the Painting.<\/li>\n
    4. A Copyright Symbol and Year.<\/li>\n
    5. What I Used to Conserve the Painting.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      In this case I used Dammar Varnish, so I’ve written that down in the lower right on the back of the panel. \u00a0This will help future owners and conservators when it comes time to clean and re-seal the painting. \u00a0They will know what solvents and cleaners are\u00a0necessary to do their work and will appreciate that I’ve helped them out with this message.
      \n\"FramingYou can see the screws I use are stainless steel, self tapping #6×3\/8″. \u00a0I prefer using these short screws because some frames have very thin face material and longer screws can actually penetrate through the front and ruin a costly frame. \u00a0That’s not good! \u00a0The 3\/8 length is strong enough to hold most any painting up to about 18×24 inches. \u00a0Beyond that, you may want to ensure your frames are more substantial and can take the longer screws without any issues. I don’t think the 3\/8″ screws\u00a0are\u00a0adequate\u00a0to hold larger, heavier frames. \u00a0You can also see the “offset clip” I’ve used to hold the panel tightly in the frame opening. These clips come in different offset depths and it’s good to have an assortment because frames have differing rabbet depths and sometimes you may use a thicker panel or canvas so it’s good to be prepared.
      \n\"Framing<\/p>\n

      I like the single-eye, D-Ring style, stainless steel hangers. These too are strong enough to hold small to medium-sized paintings but if you frame larger works, it would be good to get the heavy-duty hangers with two screw holes, so you can be assured they will hold the extra weight.<\/p>\n

      \"Framing<\/p>\n

      You can see the tips of the self-tapping screws in this photo. No need to pre-drill pilot holes when using these–saves lots of time. \u00a0Just put the screw on the magnetic tip of your drill driver and place it where you want, then pull the trigger…in it goes!
      \n\"Framing<\/p>\n

      I think it’s best\u00a0to use vinyl-coated framers wire for the hanging wire. \u00a0It protects your fingers (and your clients) as well as makes the installation easier. \u00a0If you’ve ever had your finger pricked or had a strand of framing wire go under your fingernail, you’ll know why I recommend this \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

      I use a slip-knot loop to attach the wire to the D-Rings at both ends. \u00a0Leave about 4 or 5 inches of extra wire at each end in addition to the length needed to span the width from the D-Rings at each side.
      \n\"Framing<\/p>\n

      Tighten up the slip-knot, then wrap the extra wire around the main length about a 10 or 12 times…
      \n\"Framing<\/p>\n

      then cinch it down tight and cut off the excess, leaving a nice presentation\u00a0with no fly-away ends. \u00a0The D-Rings should be placed as near to the edge of the frame as possible without showing. \u00a0This ensures that the painting hangs close to the wall.
      \n\"Framing<\/p>\n

      I also like to add a business card with my web URL on it glued to the back. \u00a0I use simple white glue for this because it will hold up well and dries clear.
      \n\"FramingThe finished wire should be good and\u00a0taught without much slack. \u00a0Here you can see that with the D-Rings about 6 inches from the top of the frame, the wire flexes up when hanging by less than two inches, leaving about 4 inches of room for the hanger to be hidden from the top of the painting. \u00a0This also makes sure that the top of the frame does not drift away from the wall.
      \n\"Framing<\/p>\n

      That’s it! \u00a0It’s not too difficult to Do It Yourself and make sure your art will\u00a0hang correctly and with a professional appearance. \u00a0Your clients and galleries will appreciate your art all the much more when it’s\u00a0framed and ready to hang with professional, quality materials and techniques.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      The working artist has to wear many hats, one of which is the “Framers Hat.”\u00a0The following framing tips\u00a0show how I treat my paintings to ensure they look professionally done and will serve my clients and galleries well. If you plan to sell paintings yourself through an online presence without the intermediary of a gallery or […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1749,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[67],"tags":[140,12],"class_list":["post-1725","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-instructional","tag-instructional","tag-plein-air"],"yoast_head":"\nFraming Tips for the #Pleinair Artist - Ronald Lee Oliver<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Framing Tips and techniques on framing and hanging for the plein air #pleinair artist. 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